New Zealand's second highest peak
Mount Tasman and Mount Lendenfeld
Enjoying the views of the Fox Glacier and West Coast
Mt. Haast, Mt. Lendenfeld and Mt. Tasman
Rarakiroa/Mount Tasman Guided Ascent
Mount Tasman, 3489m/11469ft, is New Zealand's second highest peak. It is regarded as the country's most beautiful mountain, providing superb ice climbing - a true climbers peak!
A climb of Mount Tasman is technically more challenging than a climb of Mount Cook, and lacks the high hazard of threatening ice cliffs and worsening crevasse problems of Mount Cook's Linda Glacier. The main challenge on Mount Tasman is the length of time climbing on a very exposed ridgeline. Summit day involves 15-20 hours climbing.
"Die Mt. Tasman-Tour hat die höchste Stellenwert in meinem Bergsteigerleben! Wir waren die ganze Zeit alleine unterwegs, war besonders beeindruckend. (The Mt Tasman climb has the highest rating out of all the climbs I've done. We had the whole mountain to ourselves, it was particularly impressive.)" - W. Köhne, Germany.
|Guide:client ratio||6 days|
|returning client discount, if you have been on an Alpine Recreation trip before.|
- IFMGA/NZMGA certified mountain guide
- National Park fees
- Hut accommodation
- Local accommodation for any nights required during the trip
- Free transport (Tekapo - Mt. Cook return)
- ALL meals (including snacks & energy bars) for the duration of the trip
- ALL technical climbing equipment (with the exception of boots)
Meals and accommodation before/after the trip are NOT included.
Air access is essential. It is possible to fly to both Plateau Hut and Pioneer Hut from Mt. Cook Village. Flights from Fox Glacier involve road transport from Tekapo to Fox at extra cost (NZ$300 - shared amongst participants).
The peak climbing season for Mount Tasman ascents is November to February, but it is sometimes possible to climb the mountain outside of these dates, depending on conditions. Please contact us with the dates you would like. We recommend that you settle guiding dates well in advance as guide availability during peak season is limited. Please allow extra time in case you are held up in the mountains due to weather.
Venue: Plateau & Pioneer Huts
Choice of venue
Pioneer Hut and Plateau Hut, the bases from which you climb Mount Tasman, are public huts that cannot be booked.
The huts work on a first-come first-served basis.
Climbers must carry their own sleeping bags, food, stove, fuel and cooking utensils to the huts as well as some party equipment and their personal equipment.
Previous Experience & Fitness
Participants need to be exceptionally fit, well coordinated and mentally and physically strong to cope with the extreme environment and height exposure. Summit day involves 15-20 hours climbing.
A climb of Mt Tasman is more technically challenging than a climb of Mt Cook. Previous mountaineering and technical ice climbing experience is essential. Participants should have excellent crampon and ice axe skills.
For ski ascents climbers must be advanced alpine skiers or expert telemark skiers, they must be able to handle steep untracked snow while carrying a pack.
You will be required to submit a detailed list of previous ice climbing experience and a schedule of personal fitness training.
These requirements are in place to ensure the safety of you and your guide and to make sure you have a realistic chance of success on Mt Tasman. If you do not have the necessary experience or fitness to attempt Mt Tasman now, contact us. We will create a customised pathway to prepare you to tackle Mt Tasman in the future.
A climb of Mount Tasman takes at least three climbing days. To book a guide for less than 6 days is unrealistic as it allows no flexibility in case of bad weather, and reduces your chances considerably of a successful climb.
Climbing times on Mount Tasman depend largely on snow and ice conditions, approximately 12-18 hours. During winter and spring skis can be used to Marcel Col. During summer months access is by foot.
Glacier access routes usually pose little problem on Mount Tasman. Winter months July to September and summer months November to February are recommended.
North Shoulder Route:
The standard route on Mount Tasman from Pioneer Hut, follows the Albert Glacier to Marcel Col. After a traverse of Mount Lendenfeld (3194m) descend to Engineer Col and ascend the steep North Shoulder of Mount Tasman.
The route follows a narrow ice ridge, hence climbers are exposed to the weather for a very long time while objective dangers from ice avalanches are limited to a very short section below the north shoulder.
Silberhorn Ridge Route:
A climb of Mount Tasman from Plateau Hut via the Silberhorn Ridge is technically more advanced than the North Shoulder route. It is regarded as one of New Zealand's finest ice climbs.
All of your equipment will be checked during the gear check at our office at the start of your trip. Any equipment you need to borrow from us will be issued by your guide.
Alpine Recreation provides helmets, harnesses, crampons and ice-axes. Outdoor clothing, packs and boots can also be provided at no extra cost if necessary. Please see the equipment list for further details.