Mount Tasman, 3489m/11469ft, is New Zealand's second highest peak. It is regarded as the country's most beautiful mountain, providing superb ice climbing.
A climb of Mount Tasman is technically more challenging than a climb of Mount Cook, but lacks the high hazard of threatening ice cliffs and the worsening crevasse problems of the Linda Glacier. The main challenge on Mount Tasman is the length of time climbed on a very exposed ridgeline. Summit day involves 15-20 hours climbing.
"Die Mt. Tasman-Tour hat die höchste Stellenwert in meinem Bergsteigerleben! Wir waren die ganze Zeit alleine unterwegs, war besonders beeindruckend. (The Mt Tasman climb has the highest rating out of all the climbs I've done. We had the whole ascent to ourselves, was particularly impressive." - W. Köhne,Germany.
1 participant only per guide.
|2013-14 Season: Price per person in NZ$ (valid 1 May 2013 - 30 April 2014)|
|NZ$100 returning client discount, if you have been on an Alpine Recreation trip before.|
Please note that on public holidays there will be a surcharge of NZ$190 (incl. GST) per person per day.
New Zealand public holidays 2013: New Year 1/1 & 2/1, Waitangi Day 6/2, Good Friday 29/3, Easter Monday 1/4, Anzac Day 25/4, Labour Day 28/10, Christmas Day 25/12, Boxing Day 26/12.
New Zealand public holidays 2014: New Year 1/1 & 2/1, Waitangi Day 6/2, Good Friday 18/4, Easter Monday 21/4, Anzac Day 25/4, Labour Day 27/10, Christmas Day 25/12, Boxing Day 26/12.
Included: NZMGA/IFMGA mountain guide for 6 days, hut fees, all meals while on the climb, surface transport from Lake Tekapo to Mount Cook and return, hire of all mountaineering equipment (with the exception of boots), National Parks concession fees, 15% GST.
Meals and accommodation before/after tour are NOT included.
Aircraft access (not included): Helicopter from Fox Glacier township to Pioneer Hut one-way: NZ$465 for 3 people + gear. Flights from Fox involve road transport from Tekapo to Fox at extra cost (NZ$300 - shared amongst participants). Alternatively you can fly from Mt Cook airport with a Pilatus Porter for NZ$1230, carrying 6 + Gear.
Air access is essential.
» The huts work on a first-come first-served basis.
» Climbers must carry their own sleeping bags, food, stove, fuel and cooking utensils to the huts as well as some party equipment and their personal equipment.
Participants need to be exceptionally fit, well coordinated and mentally and physically strong to cope with the extreme environment and height exposure. Summit day involves 15-20 hours climbing.
A climb of Mt Tasman is more technically challenging than a climb of Mt Cook. Previous mountaineering and technical ice climbing experience is essential. Participants should have excellent crampon and ice axe skills.
If you are not able to climb 100% safely with crampons on 45° ice, then you need to do a climbing course with us first.
For ski ascents climbers must be advanced alpine skiers or expert telemark skiers, they must be able to handle steep untracked snow while carrying a pack.
You will be required to submit a detailed list of previous ice climbing experience and a schedule of personal fitness training.
These requirements are in place to ensure the safety of you and your guide and to make sure you have a realistic chance of success on Mt Tasman. If you do not have the necessary experience or fitness to attempt Mt Tasman now, contact us. We will create a customised pathway to prepare you to tackle Mt Tasman in the future.
A climb of Mount Tasman takes at least three climbing days. To book a guide for less than 6 days is unrealistic as it allows no flexibility in case of bad weather, and reduces your chances considerably of a successful climb.
NORTH SHOULDER ROUTE:
The standard route on Mount Tasman from Pioneer Hut, follows the Albert Glacier to Marcel Col. After a traverse of Mount Lendenfeld (3194m) descend to Engineer Col and ascend the steep North Shoulder of Mount Tasman.
The route follows a narrow ice ridge, hence climbers are exposed to the weather for a very long time while objective dangers from ice avalanches are limited to a very short section below the north shoulder.
SILBERHORN RIDGE ROUTE:
A climb of Mount Tasman from Plateau Hut via the Silberhorn Ridge is technically more advanced than the North Shoulder route. It is regarded as one of New Zealand's finest ice climbs.
» Climbing times on Mount Tasman depend largely on snow and ice conditions, approximately 12-18 hours. During winter and spring skis can be used to Marcel Col. During summer months access is by foot.
Glacier access routes usually pose little problem on Mount Tasman. Winter months July to September and summer months November to February are recommended.
Check our latest snow and ice report.
Alpine Recreation provides all technical mountaineering equipment, including alpine touring skis. The only equipment that clients are requested to bring are their own mountaineering boots as we only store a limited range of such boots. Plastic climbing boots are suitable for both summer and winter ski ascents. A detailed equipment list will be sent at time of booking. Outdoor clothing and packs can also be provided at no extra cost if necessary.
Accommodation pre-/post- tour:
As our equipment check takes place at 8am on the morning of departure, you need to book accommodation in Tekapo the night before. After the tour, it is recommended to overnight in Tekapo again, or in Mount Cook. Accommodation options in Tekapo.
In case of accident New Zealand's Accident Compensation scheme (ACC) will cover the majority of costs (about 80%) involved with evacuation and injury treatment, even for visitors to New Zealand. However you still need ordinary travel insurance to cover such things as your cancellation if an injury prevents you taking part on the trip, or a close relative suddenly becomes ill; and medical insurance in case you become ill. More information re Accident Compensation. The New Zealand Alpine Club provides a good mountaineering specific travel insurance.