6 days guided alpine climb, 1 participant only per guide.
"Mount Cook is a world-class climb. Fantastic guide, extremely strong climber and great instructor." L. Freitag, USA. Ski ascent.
Nearing the summit of Aoraki/Mount Cook
Mount Cook, 3750m, is New Zealand's highest peak and has special significance for NgaiTahu. Sustained glacier travel with rock and ice climbing. Participants need to be exceptionally fit, well coordinated and mentally and physically strong. Summit day involves 15 - 20 hours climbing. Please submit detailed list of previous climbing experience and schedule of personal fitness training. Aircraft access to Plateau Glacier recommended at extra cost. NZMGA/IFMGA mountain guides.
| Departures: | by arrangement. Contact us. |
| Start: | 8.00am Lake Tekapo. |
| Cost per person: | NZ$4000 (valid until 30 April 2010). NZ$ exchange rate. |
| Included in price: | Guide for 6 days, hire of all mountaineering equipment with the exception of boots, all meals while on the climb, hut fees, surface transport from Lake Tekapo to Mount Cook and return, National Park concession fee, 12.5% Goods and Services Tax. Accommodation and meals in Lake Tekapo before and after the climb are not included in price. |
| Aircraft Access (not included): |
Ski Plane rate. Helicopter also available but usually more expensive unless a group happens to be flying out when you want to fly in, so that costs can be shared. We strongly recommend aircraft access. Because of the roughness of the Tasman Glacier moraine, unstable rock on Haast Ridge and the time taken to walk in, most climbers opt to fly to Plateau Hut. Chances of a summit success are increased by flying in, because you can take immediate advantage of a fine weather day for a summit attempt. (If you walk in you really need a rest day before commencing your summit attempt at midnight.) |
Aoraki/Mount Cook, Upper Linda Glacier
Mount Cook is New Zealand's highest mountain, 3754m/12315ft. Although not very high by international standards it is its relative height that makes this mountain very impressive. From the road end at Mount Cook village to the top of the mountain it is over 3000 vertical metres / over 10,000 vertical feet that a climber has to negotiate. Most climbers choose to negotiate the first 1200m by ski plane or helicopter. This maximises the chances of success on the mountain.
From Plateau Hut at 2200m climbers begin winding up the gentle (10-30deg) Linda Glacier under torchlight following a 1am start. Just as dawn is starting to colour the sky we move onto the much more challenging Linda Shelf. This 500m long ice-shelf requires us to traverse carefully along usually icy slopes of between 30-35 degrees, demanding a high level of cramponing skill. This part of the route perhaps requires the most care. Daylight should see us at the base of the famous Summit Rocks. This 150m high rock buttress holds 4 pitches (rope lengths) of mixed rock snow and ice climbing that provide a real thrill and require the use of two ice tools. This buttress is the technical crux of the route with short near vertical steps and a sustained grade of 60 degrees. After this technical challenge only the summit ice cap awaits. 25-35 degree ice and snow slopes lead you up past the ice chandeliers and toward the top of New Zealand. The knife-edge summit ridge winds away to the south and the whole country falls beneath your feet. The descent is via the same route and requires a lot of careful cramponing and some steep abseils to return to the comfort of Plateau Hut some 14-20 hours since you left.
A climb of Aoraki Mount Cook takes at least three climbing days. To book a guide for less than 6 days is unrealistic as it allows no flexibility in case of bad weather, and reduces your chances considerably of a successful climb.
WARNING: The Linda Glacier route on Mt Cook requires climbers to pass below hanging glaciers. These glaciers collapse regularly and without warning. While there have been relatively few fatalities from these collapses, there have been many near misses. We will only climb Mt Cook when conditions allow us to avoid the bulk of these hanging glaciers but some risk will always remain. There are other mountains that do not require travel beneath hanging glaciers. The choice to attempt the Linda Glacier route on Mt Cook is a personal one and should be made in the knowledge that these risks exist and are out of our control.
Climbing times on Mount Cook depend largely on snow conditions and the crevasse situation of the Linda Glacier. During winter and spring there is often little difficulty in finding a route through the Linda ice-fall, however, skis or snow shoes must be used during these times. During summer months access is by foot. Early during the season, November - December crevasses are usually well filled in, however, deep snow can make progress very slow, while firmer snow during January and February must be weighed up against more broken and sometimes difficult conditions on the glacier. Access during late summer (March-April) is sometimes cut off completely, particularly after a poor winter and a hot early summer. Weather conditions are usually more settled during the later part of the summer (Jan-Feb) and during early/mid winter.
Linda Glacier as seen from summit of Aoraki / Mount Cook 07 September 2007
Please note that in September 2007 Alpine Recreation suspended guided ascents on Aoraki Mount Cook via the Linda Glacier. Hot summer temperatures and relatively low snowfall rates during the previous winters had left the Linda Glacier, the standard ascent route, heavily crevassed, forcing climbers closer underneath dangerous ice cliffs and it was felt that the objective hazard of this route had become unacceptably high. However, after a very good snow winter in 2008 and good glacier conditions in summer 2009-2010, we have reviewed this decision. The 2009 winter has brought another very good snow season, so that crevasses are nicely filled in making for much safer conditions on the Linda Glacier for the 2009-2010 summer.
Nevertheless the Linda Glacier route still has significant objective hazards and you may wish to consider an alternative such as Mount Tasman or an alternative mountain or to participate on one of our Intermediate Climbing Courses and learn the necessary skills so that you can work towards attempting one of the harder routes on Aoraki. Such a route could be the East Ridge, or the Hooker Face, which are not affected by the ice fall or crevasse problems that you encounter on the Linda Glacier.
Plateau Hut, the base from which you climb Mount Cook is a public hut that cannot be booked. The hut works on a first-come first-served basis. Climbers must carry their own sleeping bags and food to the hut as well as some party equipment and their personal equipment. A new Plateau Hut was completed in April 2005.
A climb of Mt Cook is more technically difficult than a climb of Mt Everest! For this reason we require participants to prove their suitability before Mt Cook will be attempted. This can be done by;
a) undertaking a climbing trip or instruction course with Alpine Recreation before we attempt Mt Cook; OR
b) providing us with your 'Climbing Resume' including climbs of a similar technical standard to Mt Cook. These climbs will need to include:
- Height gains in excess of 1300m (4000ft) in a single push
- Technical ice and mixed climbing up to 60 degrees steepness
- Long sections requiring crampon and ice axe use
If you are not able to climb 100% safely with crampons on 45 degree ice, then you need to do a Climbing Course with us first.
These requirements are in place to ensure the safety of you and your guide and to make sure you have a realistic chance of success on Aoraki. If you do not have the necessary experience or fitness to attempt Mt Cook now, contact us. We will create a customised pathway to prepare you to tackle Mt Cook in future.
Caroline Face and East Face of Aoraki/Mount Cook
Alpine Recreation provides all technical mountaineering equipment, incl. alpine touring skis, at no extra charge. The only equipment that clients are requested to bring are their own mountaineering boots. We only store a limited range of such boots. Plastic climbing boots are suitable for both summer and winter ski ascents. A detailed equipment list will be sent at time of booking.
We recommend to settle guiding dates well in advance since peak season times are often booked up. For arrangements with a set departure the company may allow a postponement of the climb in case of bad weather provided other guiding commitments permit this. Book now.
As our equipment check takes place at 8am on the morning of departure, you need to book accommodation in Tekapo the night before. After the tour, it is recommended to overnight in Tekapo again, or in Mount Cook. Accommodation options in Tekapo.
New Zealand's Accident Compensation scheme will provide some assistance to visitors to New Zealand who are injured, but you are strongly advised to have full travel insurance to cover such things as your cancellation if an injury prevents you taking part on the trip; and medical insurance in case you become ill. More information re Accident Compensation.
Please see the Aoraki/Mount Cook Gallery for more pictures.
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Photography © Gottlieb Braun-Elwert & Keith Payne