1 or 2 participants only per guide.

NZ$ exchange rate.

Please note that on public holidays there will be a surcharge of NZ$90 per person per day.
New Zealand public holidays 2013: New Year 1/1 & 2/1, Waitangi Day 6/2, Good Friday 29/3, Easter Monday 1/4, Anzac Day 25/4, Labour Day 28/10, Christmas Day 25/12, Boxing Day 26/12.
New Zealand public holidays 2014: New Year 1/1 & 2/1, Waitangi Day 6/2, Good Friday 18/4, Easter Monday 21/4, Anzac Day 25/4, Labour Day 27/10, Christmas Day 25/12, Boxing Day 26/12.

Included: guide, hut accommodation, all food, surface transport* Lake Tekapo - Mount Cook return, all climbing equipment including crampons, ice axe, helmet, boots, National Parks concession fees, 15% GST.

* For travel to West Coast venues an additional NZ$300 for the vehicle applies, to be shared amongst participants.

Aircraft access (not included): Flights are not included in price because cost varies according to venue, type of aircraft and occupancy. Ski plane carrying 3 + gear from Mt Cook Airport to Tasman Saddle NZ$615. Return flight is often cheaper if you can catch the back-flight of other climbers flying in. Helicopter carrying 5 + gear to Tasman Saddle is NZ$944. Helicopter for 3 + gear from Fox/Franz Josef to Pioneer/Centennial Huts NZ$495. Helicopter Chancellor Hut - Fox NZ$255. Prices subject to change.

Optional climbing manual covering course material is available for purchase for NZ$20 before/after the course. A letter certifying course completion is available on request.

Meals and accommodation before/after tour are NOT included.

Choice of venue

The venues we choose for our Advanced Climbing courses are usually Kelman Hut, at the head of the Tasman Glacier, Pioneer Hut high on the Fox Glacier or Centennial Hut on the Franz Josef Glacier Nevé. Venue can be decided finally after closer discussion between you and the guide to determine your requirements and taking into account hut occupancy, weather and snow conditions.

Public Huts

Kelman, Pioneer and Centennial Huts are public huts that cannot be booked and work on a first come first served basis. Climbers must carry their own sleeping bags and personal equipment to the huts, and a share of the following items, which Alpine Recreation provides: food, stove, fuel and cooking utensils.

Instruction and/or guided ascents

Advanced Climbing can take the form of a course with emphasis on instruction, and putting things into practice by climbing peaks; or it can take the form of private guiding where the emphasis is on climbing as many peaks as possible. Advanced Climbing Course photos.

Instruction topics include:

• Steep snow and ice climbing - front-pointing and ice tool techniques
• Alpine rock climbing
• Advanced rock, snow and ice anchors
• Advanced rope techniques - eg. moving together on ridges and running belays
• Glacier travel & advanced crevasse rescue
• Improvised rescue techniques
• Safe route selection & terrain analysis
• Whiteout navigation
• Mountain weather and forecasting
• Snow shelters
• Avalanche hazard management
• Environmental awareness

Several of these topics can be covered indoors if bad weather confines you to the hut.

We can bring your skill level up to standard, but you need to prepare yourself fitness-wise. If you have not used crampons, ice-axe or a rope before, then you are recommended to start with our Introductory Course. If it's been a few years since you did a course or used crampons and ice-axe, we recommend refreshing your skills on our Intermediate Course.

Required:

• very high level of fitness (as a minimum, you should be able to climb 300 vertical metres per hour over untracked terrain with at least 12kg in your pack and be able to sustain that for at least 6 hours)
• alpine climbing experience using crampons and ice axe (eg. a previous climbing course - our Intermediate Course is ideal preparation)
• rope management skills (eg. rock climbing, abseiling, caving)

Recommended fitness training:

• regular exercise or a fitness training programme, eg. uphill walking with a 12kg pack on; weekend hikes of at least 4 hours; jogging (off-road/cross-country if possible for good footwork and coordination), cycling - anything aerobic, giving you a good heart-lung workout
• indoor climbing/rock climbing is recommended for improving and maintaining arm strength and developing psychological fitness for exposure.

DAY 1:

All trips start at 8am in Lake Tekapo with gear outfitting at Alpine Recreation's office, 30 Murray Place, Lake Tekapo. No extra cost for any gear you need to borrow - from boots to helmets and technical gear.

Drive to Mount Cook. Fly in to one of the high alpine huts. We usually arrive at the hut before midday.

The afternoon is spent getting familiar with your new playground and beginning instruction on your choice of mountaineering techniques.

DAYS 2-5:

The guide will ascertain what needs to be taught by assessing your skill level with crampon and ice tool techniques, snow and ice anchors, belaying methods...

We aim to improve your proficiency while climbing peaks in the vicinity with the major goal being a 3000m peak towards the end of the course.

* Some of the peaks above are only "in condition" early season (November- mid-January), depending on the route chosen.

DAY 6:

The final day can be spent on instruction or a short ascent followed by a flight out, or the day can be used to walk back to civilization.

Walking out from any of the venues is not easy and can only be done by very fit groups. It is occasionally spread over the last two days of the course. Walking out is by no means a waste of time as it allows you to put into practice many of the things you have been learning and allows you to experience the full range of mountain terrain. However, most participants opt to fly out in order to maximise use of good weather for climbing.

+ How does this course compare with other climbing courses?

 

The major difference between our Advanced Climbing Programme and other climbing courses is our 1:2 guide-client ratio and the fact that we include an ascent of a significant peak as part of the course. The low guide-client ratio has some huge advantages:

• We attempt more technical peaks or routes than other courses that have more participants. While a 1:4 guide-client ratio restricts other courses to easy terrain, we can allow you to gain experience under close supervision on a real climb such as Elie de Beaumont.
• The course can be more closely matched to your fitness level. On a larger course the fitness of more people must be allowed for. With our ADC, there is less chance that you will be held back by weaker participants, or pushed too hard if everyone else on your course happens to be marathon runners!
• Our course content can be more flexible with a focus on the particular aspects of mountaineering you request. Larger courses must have a more regimented content that may or may not suit you.
• You can opt for a more instruction-oriented programme or a more ascent-targeted programme. You can also opt for a 1:1 guide-client ratio and climb peaks of your choice - see our ascents programme.
• We are totally flexible in choice of venue, according to weather, snow and ice conditions and hut occupancy. This is why we do not include air access in the course price.

+ Who is the Advanced Climbing Course for?

 

Becoming self-sufficient

This course can be customised to your wishes. Many people come to us with some climbing experience and want to progress towards climbing big mountains independently.

The 1:2 guide-client ratio on this course makes it ideal for those with such aspirations. The course can begin with instruction on any deficiencies in your knowledge, progress onto semi-guided ascents and finish with your making ascents yourself, under the close but hands-off supervision of the guide. This is the perfect progression toward self-sufficiency.

 

Preparing for guided ascents

These courses will equip you with the technical skills to tackle peaks such as Mt. Tasman and Aoraki Mt. Cook with a guide; they cannot, however, give you the experience and judgement required to ascend such peaks unguided. Such attributes can only be acquired gradually over time after many trips into the mountains.

 

Updating skills

Those who have done a mountaineering course but have had a few years since using the skills learnt are recommended to use our Intermediate Course to update with modern techniques before launching back into technical climbing on the Advanced Course.

+ How should I decide between the Intermediate and Advanced Climbing Course?

+ What if I don't have a climbing partner for the 1:2 guide-client ratio?

+ What will I end up with?

+ What do I do next?

Why go with Alpine Recreation?

Read information about us and what sets us apart.

Equipment:

Alpine Recreation provides all mountaineering equipment, including boots. Outdoor clothing and packs can also be provided at no extra cost if necessary. ADC Clothing & Equipment list.

Accommodation pre-/post- tour:

As our equipment check takes place at 8am on the morning of departure, you need to book accommodation in Tekapo the night before. After the tour, it is recommended to overnight in Tekapo again, or in Mount Cook. Accommodation options in Tekapo.

Insurance:

In case of accident New Zealand's Accident Compensation scheme (ACC) will cover the majority of costs (about 80%) involved with evacuation and injury treatment, even for visitors to New Zealand. However you still need ordinary travel insurance to cover such things as your cancellation if an injury prevents you taking part on the trip, or a close relative suddenly becomes ill; and medical insurance in case you become ill. More information re Accident Compensation. The New Zealand Alpine Club provides a good mountaineering specific travel insurance.

How green are we?

Alpine Recreation reduces its carbon footprint and environmental impact through such things as:

- restricting group size
- using fuel efficient vehicles
- minimising use of vehicles and aircraft
- recycling, re-using, composting, avoiding "consumerism"
- minimal impact huts
- bulk buying of food supplies
- promoting conservation of native flora and fauna
- supporting community efforts to encourage appreciation of the natural environment

For details please refer to our Environmental Care Action.